Fabric literacy: what your clothes are made of and why it matters
The Fabric Files decodes clothing labels - fiber, weave, weight, and care - so you can tell quality before you buy.
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Use written care instructions as the source of truth
Care labels can combine symbols and words. Read the full current label and follow the most specific instruction rather than guessing from fiber type or relying on an old product page.
How to read fiber names and percentages on a clothing label
Read the generic fiber names and their percentages, then check care instructions and country of origin. A marketing name does not replace the required textile disclosures.
How to read a fabric label like a buyer
Fiber percentages, the 5% elastane ceiling, and the blend ratios that separate good knits from saggy ones.
Merino vs cashmere: which knit is actually worth it
Warmth, softness, pilling, price-per-year - the honest comparison for everyday sweaters.
Merino wool, decoded: what the micron numbers mean and when it's worth the money
Micron counts, the 17.5 threshold, why merino doesn't itch, and the honest cost-per-wear case against cotton and cashmere.
Cashmere grades explained: what the label does not tell you
Grade A, B, and C cashmere measure fiber length and thickness, and the label almost never says which you are buying.
Quick answers
- Is cotton or polyester better for everyday clothes?
- Why do sweaters pill, and can you prevent it?
- What does GSM mean in fabric?
- Are linen wrinkles a defect?
- What does momme mean in silk?
How to read a textile fiber label
Read fiber content before care claims or marketing names. A blend percentage tells you more about feel, warmth, stretch, and care than a branded fabric description.
Frequently asked questions
What does GSM mean on a fabric listing?
GSM is grams per square meter, the standard weight measure for fabric. It predicts body and opacity better than thread count for most apparel cloth: light shirting sits low, denim sits high, and the same fiber at two weights behaves like two different fabrics.
Should I wash new cotton fabric before sewing?
Yes for garments that need to fit after washing. Cotton can shrink a few percent in the first wash, and sewing first means the seams take that shrinkage as puckering and pulled stitches. A pre wash in the same conditions you will use later removes the guesswork.
What is the difference between woven and knit fabric?
Wovens are interlaced yarns at right angles and are stable with little stretch unless elastic is added. Knits are looped yarns and stretch by structure. That one difference drives most of how a garment drapes, fits, and holds its shape over a day of wear.