Cashmere grades explained: what the label does not tell you
Cashmere has grades, and they explain why one sweater pills in a month while another outlives a decade of winters. The grade describes the raw fiber, specifically how long and how fine the hairs are, but most labels never mention it. Here is what the grades mean and how to shop around the silence.
What the grades measure
Grade A fibers are the longest (around 34-36mm) and finest (about 14-15.5 microns). Grade B is shorter and slightly thicker, and Grade C is the shortest and coarsest, sometimes twice the thickness of Grade A. Longer, finer fibers twist into smoother, stronger yarn, which is why Grade A pills less and softens with wear instead of thinning.
Why labels stay vague
Grade is not a regulated term the way "100% cashmere" is, and most mid-priced knitwear uses blended or lower grades. A label that says only "100% cashmere" is telling you the species, not the quality. Recycled cashmere, which is genuinely lower-impact, also produces shorter fibers, so it sits closer to Grade C performance.
How to judge without the label
Touch and stretch tell you a lot. Good cashmere feels dense and springs back when you pinch and release it; weak cashmere feels flimsy and stays dimpled. Hold it to the light: a tight, even knit with minimal halo is a good sign, while a fuzzy surface out of the box usually means short fibers were over-brushed to fake softness.
Where price actually tracks quality
Two-ply yarn (two strands twisted together) costs more and lasts longer than single-ply at any grade. A very cheap 100% cashmere sweater is almost always short-fiber and single-ply, and the math catches up in one season of pilling. Mid-range knitwear from brands that publish ply and fiber length is usually the value sweet spot.