The Fabric Files glossary
Staple length
The length of individual fibers; longer staples spin into smoother, stronger, less-pilling yarns (Pima cotton, long-fiber merino).
GSM
Grams per square meter - fabric weight. 180-220 GSM for substantial tees, 300+ for hoodies.
Momme
Silk weight unit (4.34 g/m2 per momme); 19-25mm is the durable range for garments and pillowcases.
Two-ply
Yarn made by twisting two strands together; stronger and smoother than single-ply at the same weight, key in cashmere and shirting.
Mercerized cotton
Cotton treated with caustic soda for luster, strength, and dye uptake; common in better tees and polos.
Elastane
Synthetic stretch fiber (aka spandex/Lycra); 2-5% adds comfort, above 5% in non-activewear signals shorter garment life.
Frequently asked questions
How can I tell gabardine by touch?
Gabardine is smooth, firm, and tightly woven with a fine diagonal rib. It sheds light rain and holds a crease, which is why it became a trench coat cloth.
Is velveteen the same as velvet?
No. Velveteen is cotton with a short pile and less shine. Velvet is denser, often silk or synthetic, and drapes more fluidly.
Which fabrics wrinkle most?
Linen wrinkles most readily, followed by plain weave cottons. Tight twills and wool gabardine resist creasing better.