What Is Corduroy Fabric? Wale, Pile, and Care Explained

October 25, 2026

Corduroy is a woven fabric with raised parallel cords called wales, made by weaving extra yarns into the base cloth and cutting them to form a soft pile. It is usually cotton, sometimes blended with polyester or a little stretch. The number of wales per inch decides whether the fabric looks like fine pincord or bold wide wale corduroy. This guide explains how corduroy is made, how to read wale counts, what it is used for, and how to care for the pile.

How corduroy gets its cords

Corduroy starts as a plain or twill base weave. Extra weft yarns are woven in so they float over the surface at regular intervals, and those floats are then cut down the middle of each channel. The cut ends stand up as pile, forming the soft ribs you can feel running lengthwise down the fabric.

After cutting, the fabric is brushed, singed, and dyed. Brushing evens the pile, and the direction the pile lies is why corduroy looks darker or lighter depending on the angle. Garments are usually cut so the pile runs the same direction on every panel, and a well made piece keeps that direction consistent across seams.

Wale count, in plain terms

Wale is simply the number of cords per inch. Wide wale corduroy has about three to eight wales per inch and a bold, casual look. Standard wale sits around ten to thirteen, and pincord or needlecord runs fourteen or more, giving a fine rib that can look almost like velvet from a distance.

Lower wale counts feel plush and read casual, good for overshirts, trousers, and jackets. Higher counts drape a little smoother and suit shirts and more tailored pieces. When a product listing gives no wale count, run a fingernail across the fabric or check a close up photo: the rib spacing tells you more than the marketing name does.

What corduroy is used for, and its limits

Corduroy is warm, durable, and comfortable, which is why it returns every fall in trousers, overshirts, skirts, and jackets. The cotton base breathes reasonably well, but the pile adds insulation, so it is a cool weather fabric. Five pocket corduroy trousers and trucker style jackets are the classic uses.

The pile is also the weakness. It crushes where pressure and friction concentrate, at seat, knees, and elbows, and crushed pile catches light differently so it can look worn before the fabric actually is. Cotton corduroy also fades with washing and sun. Blends with a little polyester hold color and shape better, at some cost to the soft natural feel.

Washing corduroy without ruining the pile

Turn garments inside out, close zips and buttons, and wash cool on a gentle cycle with similar colors, because corduroy sheds lint early on and picks up lint from other fabrics forever. Wash it with smooth items, not towels or fleece, unless you enjoy picking fluff out of every rib.

Tumble dry low or line dry, and brush the pile gently with a soft clothes brush once dry to lift crushed areas. Ironing directly on the pile flattens it, so steam from the back or use a press cloth. Store trousers folded or clipped by the hem rather than crushed in a pile, and the ribs will keep their shape much longer.

Keep reading on this site: What is boucle fabric, What is chambray fabric, What is seersucker fabric. Each of those pieces connects to the ideas above and gives more detail on the parts this guide could only summarize.

Frequently asked questions

What does wale mean in corduroy?

Wale is the count of raised cords per inch of fabric. Fewer, wider wales look bold and casual. More, finer wales look smoother and dressier. It is the single most useful number for predicting how a corduroy garment will look.

Is corduroy warm?

Yes, for a cotton fabric. The pile traps a thin layer of air, which adds insulation. Wide wale corduroy in a heavy weight is a genuinely warm trouser for fall and mild winter days, though it is not windproof.

Why does my corduroy look shiny in places?

That shine is crushed pile reflecting light differently from the surrounding ribs. It happens at pressure points like the seat and knees. Brushing and steaming can lift mild crush, but long term pressure wear is part of how corduroy ages.

Can corduroy go in the dryer?

Low heat for a short cycle is usually fine and helps keep the pile soft. High heat risks shrinkage in cotton corduroy. Check the care label, turn the garment inside out, and remove it slightly damp if you want to be careful.