# Glossary | The Fabric Files

Source: https://thefabricfiles.com/glossary/

### Staple length

The length of individual fibers; longer staples spin into smoother, stronger, less-pilling yarns (Pima cotton, long-fiber merino).

### GSM

Grams per square meter - fabric weight. 180-220 GSM for substantial tees, 300+ for hoodies.

### Momme

Silk weight unit (4.34 g/m2 per momme); 19-25mm is the durable range for garments and pillowcases.

### Two-ply

Yarn made by twisting two strands together; stronger and smoother than single-ply at the same weight, key in cashmere and shirting.

### Mercerized cotton

Cotton treated with caustic soda for luster, strength, and dye uptake; common in better tees and polos.

### Elastane

Synthetic stretch fiber (aka spandex/Lycra); 2-5% adds comfort, above 5% in non-activewear signals shorter garment life.

## Frequently asked questions

### How can I tell gabardine by touch?

Gabardine is smooth, firm, and tightly woven with a fine diagonal rib. It sheds light rain and holds a crease, which is why it became a trench coat cloth.

### Is velveteen the same as velvet?

No. Velveteen is cotton with a short pile and less shine. Velvet is denser, often silk or synthetic, and drapes more fluidly.

### Which fabrics wrinkle most?

Linen wrinkles most readily, followed by plain weave cottons. Tight twills and wool gabardine resist creasing better.